Spirituality

Devotion with cursing: Tantric temple of Kodungallur

Valla Theripaatum Pachayil Paadanam,

 Illengil Devikku Kopamane

Sing explicitly obscene songs, or the Goddess will get angry. Sing about her sexual organs, sing about her being involved in lewd sexual acts. She is the ferocious, benevolent, and mighty Divinity. Let’s sing about her mysterious and magical vulva, and let’s imagine her in in-numerous sexual postures. This is just a taste of what is being prayed to the Divinity of a particular temple in Kerala.

Most of us cannot possibly connect cursing and sexuality with devotion. Our teachers, Gurus, and parents have taught us to love and respect the Gods, bow down in front of them, praising their Divinity. But there is a particular temple in Kerala where a significant portion of the worshipping rituals includes drinking and singing hymns, encircling around the sex, cursing, and reproductive organs of the Divine Mother. Today, in the blog series of mysterious temples of India, we will visit the Sree Kurumba Bhagavathy Temple of Kodungallur, Kerala, where devotees come to the temple drunk, cursing the Goddess.  

The Temple

Shree Kurumba Bhagavati Devi temple is located in the town of Kodungallur, in Kerala state. Even though the temple is called Bhagavati Devi, the festival is conducted in the name of Divine Mother Bhadrakali, locally known as Mother Kurumba. She is a powerful incarnation of Maa Bhagwati. 64 Yoginis are a prominent part of the Tantra sect, and this temple is the centre for Tantra learning in Kerala.

Surrounded by the dense forest of Peepal and Banyan trees, the temple is built in typical Kerala-style architecture with low heightened painted walls and a slanted roof. Divine Mother Kurumba resides in the primary sanctum sanctorum of the temple, facing north. She holds a sword, pot, trident, Khatwanga (spear with the skull), head of the demon Darika, a snake, bell, and the dagger in her eight hands.

Her Vigraha (consecrated idol) was carved out of jackfruit thousands of years ago. The Chanthattam ceremony is performed every year, where the Her Vigraha is bathed with adhesive materials, as described in ancient scriptures. The western chamber of the temple is also a home of Sapta Matrikas (seven Divine Mother Goddesses), namely Brahmi, Shivani, Vaishnavi, Indrani, Vaarahi, Indrani, and Narasimha. These Sapta Matrikas are accompanied by the Divine Mother Chamunda and Lord Ganesha on each side.

In Tantra, there is a specific pattern called Rurujit Vidhanam, where Vigrahas are placed in a particular design. In this pattern, the Vigraha of Lord Shiva, Ganesha, and Sapta Matrika is placed around Maa Bhagvati with specific geometric proportions. The same sacred geometry has been used in the western sanctum sanctorum of this temple, where Maa Bhagvati is surrounded by Lord Shiva, Ganesh, and Sapta Matrikas, making this one of the most ancient Tantric temples in southern India. 

Just before the west chamber, there resides instead an unusual deity. Her name is Mother Vyasoori, a mediaeval deity who yields protection against deadly infectious diseases like chickenpox, smallpox, mumps, and plague.          

The Bharani festival

As per the local legend, Maa Bhadrakali appeared from the third eye of Lord Mahadev, slaying the demon named Darika. Commemorating the victory of good over evil, the entire state of Kerala celebrates this auspicious day. Also known as Kodungalloor Bharani, this bizarre-looking festival is celebrated during the Malayalam month of Meenam, which arrives during March or April month of the Gregorian calendar.

All the roads coming to the Shree Kurumba Bhagavathi Devi temple are closed for vehicles, as the entire village of Kodungallur transforms into the playground of devotees. For the passerby, there will be nothing unusual. There will be a long queue in front of the temple, and vendors will be shouting from their throats to sell their stuff. But if you will take a closer look, you will start to see how this celebration is different from any other ordinary religious processions in India.    

Devotees, wearing red clothes, gather around the temple in flocks, making the entire temple area clad in red colour. Most of the devotees drink and go into a trance when they approach the temple’s vicinity. Drenched in euphoria, devotees wield the curved sword, dance, and sing about the Maa Kaali. These devotees, often called oracles, hit their heads with the blunt blades, cursing loudly, and this sight is exceptionally haunting for a newcomer.

Shouting insults, their oracles will throw raw rice and turmeric in the air and on the temple roof. The yellow colour of turmeric creates a mystical fog around the temple premises, and cursing, chanting, and screaming adds more mystery to the scene. Devotees believe that these red-clothed oracles are the voice of God, who acts as a bridge between the physical and the metaphysical world.

Rush increases as the evening approach. Thousands of oracles curse the goddesses and sing songs about her being engaged in raunchy sexual debauchery. They hit their heads with the blunt swords until their heads are covered in their blood.

Around 4 PM, at the exact Muhurta (auspicious time), the Royal family of Kodungallur pay their respect to the Maa and sing the oracles. When these adored devotees receive the signal from the royalty, all hell breaks loose. Breaking the lines, shouting the insults, oracles in the trans, madly dash towards the sanctum sanctorum, pelting grains, turmeric and money on the roof. Taking a break from hitting their heads, they now began to hit the temple walls with the sticks.

Circling the temple three times, oracles take blessings from royalty and the Gods, and then the temple shuts down for a week for the cleansing and purification process. After a week, devotees return to the temple, seeking blessings from Maa.

Cursing, being drunk, and hurling insults to God is practically unacceptable regarding spirituality and religion. Then why are many people visiting the temple of Kodungallur exponentially increasing each year? Speaking scientifically, it’s because of the spiritual effect and the emotional catharsis it provides to the devotees.

Several studies indicate that cursing conveys a severe emotional reaction instead of resorting to physical violence. Dancing is a great way to reduce stress, as it releases endorphins or happy hormones. Studies also say that cursing people are more honest than non-cursing. Cursing and dancing devotees gathering in the Maa Bhagvati temple possess nothing but pure devotion in their hearts towards the Divine Mother. They lose the sense of place, direction, time, and even reality when they get under the influence of some alcohol, bound with a lot of devotion, and it is a sight to watch. So, next time, if you are planning a visit to Kerala, add this ancient temple to your list.      

We hope you enjoyed reading about the mystical temple of Maa Bhagavati, located in the state of Kerala. Please subscribe to our mailing list to stay connected and receive information about spirituality. In case of any queries, please write to us at info@chamundaswamiji.com. You can check out our YouTube channel Chamunda Swamiji where you can learn Tantra, Mantra, Yantra, and Meditation from His Holiness Shri Chamunda Swamiji.